Box Installation

Overflow Kit Installation
Congratulations on your wise decision to pad our pockets. Please note that this is a do-it-yourself project that we supply the do-it yourself stuff for you to do-it yourself. Working with glass has inherent dangers, so please be careful and wear gloves, shoes, pants, eye protection, etc.. If you have any questions or concerns, please email us at info@Glass-Holes.com. Prior to installation, be sure that you have everything you will need to complete the installation. This includes, but is not limited to:
1. Aquarium with non-tempered panel to be drilled. If you are uncertain if the panel you are about to drill is not tempered, STOP! Please contact the tank manufacturer, or visit our forum, www.WorldReefers.com for tempered panel information. If you attempt to drill a tempered panel, it will shatter, which is a very conclusive way to determine whether or not it is tempered.
2. Cordless drill with adjustable clutch. We recommend the use of a cordless drill to avoid electrocution, (undesirable), as water needs to be applied over the hole saw during drilling. The clutch will limit torque transfer to the glass, reducing the chances of cracking the glass.
3. Spring clamps and/or duct tape. Used to hold the template in place.
4. Marking pen. Used to mark mounting location.
5. Tape measure. Used to help determine mounting location.
6. Water source. A spray bottle, garden hose, bucket, just about anything will do.
7. Expendable towels. Used for clean-up.
8. Teflon Tape. Used to seal threaded plumbing fittings.
9. Silicone plumber’s (not mechanic’s!) grease. Recommended (not required) to use on gaskets.
10. Safety gear. Mentioned above.
Your Glass-Holes.com Complete Overflow Kit, which contains:
a. Glass-Holes.com overflow box
b. Diamond coated holesaw
i. 1 ¾ inch for nano, super-nano, and el nano grande
ii. 2 ? inch for 700 or 1500
iii.3 inch for Dart
c. Mounting template
d. Bulkhead(s), each with 2 gaskets
i. 1) 1 inch for nano, super-nano, and el nano grande
ii. 1) 1 ½ inch for 700
iii.2) 1 ½ inch for 1500
iv. 2) 2 inch for Dart
e. Vented elbow(s)
i. 1) 1 inch for nano, super-nano, nano-riffic, and el nano grande
ii. 1) 1 ½ inch for 700
iii.2) 1 ½ inch for 1500
iv. 2) 2 inch for Dart f. A FLexible Underwater Siphon Husher (F.L.U.S.H.) for each elbow
Go ahead and stick the F.L.U.S.H. tube into the hole in the elbow now.

g. Bubble wrap
h. Optional: Dope Glass-Holes.com T-Shirt (to be worn immediately following
installation)
i. Piece of candy
j. These instructions. If you do not have these instructions, please call us and let us know. Then we’ll know who doesn’t tell the truth all the time.
The appropriate plumbing supplies to go from the elbow(s) on the kit to your sump. This can be pvc, spaflex, vinyl tubing, etc. This plumbing should consist of the minimum of fittings needed, and no valves, or fittings smaller than the pipe size of the kit you purchased. If you have a nano series kit, this would be 1” plumbing all the way to the sump, for 700 and 1500, this is 1 1/2”, and for the Dart kits, this is 2” plumbing. The kits will not work properly with smaller or restricted plumbing!!!!

Here’s what to do with all this stuff:
1. Determine the water level you wish to run. We find with typical applications within our recommended flow rates the water level in our boxes will be just over ½ to ¾ of the way up the teeth. If you are using a toothless (Grandpa style) box plan on the water level running ½” to ?” higher than the box. Once you have your desired water level determined you can measure and mark how far down the holes will be from the top of the tank.
2. Now locate the drilling template where you have determined you need to drill the hole(s). You can use duct tape to mount the template, although we do recommend using spring clamps to hold it in place. DO NOT use screw type clamps, these can cause too much localized stress and crack your glass!
3. At this point you will want to don any safety equipment you wish to use. We always use eye goggles and gloves, hearing protection is not a bad idea either, drilling can be quite loud. It is obnoxious sounding, too.
4. Place something like the included bubble wrap or a piece of cardboard under the future hole, so the plug doesn’t fall out and crack the opposite panel. You feel really stupid when you drill a perfect hole and crack the other side of the tank.
5. Ideally you will use a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch that can be set very light. This will prevent extra force on the glass should you bind the bit during drilling. Anyway, now it is time to start drilling!! Pour some regular old water in the template hole to cool and lubricate the hole saw, you will want to keep the bit wet through the whole drilling process. Start drilling flush to the glass, using the provided template.
Light pressure and a speed of 700-1000 RPM are optimal. The drilling will make a horrid grinding noise. This is normal, you are actually grinding through the glass. Be glad you don’t hear these same sounds at the dentist.
6. After drilling for a bit (pun intended), you should be able to remove the hole saw from the template and see a groove starting in the glass. Once you see this groove you will want to remove the drilling template; it has served its purpose. If you require multiple holes, (1500 and Dart kits), you will want to start both holes before removing the template.
7. Now you can come back to the groove you have started and finish up the hole. You will want to keep the hole saw wet through the process for cooling and lubrication. As you get near to the end of drilling the hole you will see the water start to leak through, this is the sign that you are close. Imagine suspenseful music at this time, it makes it much more exciting! At this point you will want to use very light pressure and
patience to minimize chip out on the opposite side. However, some chip out is normal and likely.
8. Look at the wonderful thing you just did, pat yourself on the back, think to yourself how difficult you thought it would be, but how simple it actually was. Begin making analogies to other things in life you thought were too difficult, so you never even tried them, and how different your life would be if you had, and how that jerk that used to live next door to you just went ahead and tried, and now he has a riding mower and was on MTV Cribs, and you’re drilling your own aquarium, all alone. Maybe you could do all of those things you always wanted to do, but didn’t think you could. You start to think about how your father discouraged you from working on your bike, and how you needed to prove to him that you could fix it yourself. How he would criticize you for handing him an open end wrench when he asked for a box end. You decide that heck, if I can drill through glass, I can do anything! You want to call your dad and rub it in his face. Then you realize that he was just projecting his own insecurities, and remind yourself that you will be different with your own kids. You start thinking about quitting your job and taking the next flight to Italy to start sculpting marble. You then realize that you probably wouldn’t be that good at it anyway, dad was right, and you are actually pretty satisfied. Then you remember and say to yourself, “Heck, I’m making my own reef readier aquarium!” This reminds you of the project you’re working on and you then realize that this isn’t going to finish itself, so you move on to step 9., forgetting once again your
dreams….
9. Clean up
Take a look at figure 363b:

11. If you have some silicone plumber’s grease, smear some on the gaskets, just a nice little film. I like to put a dab on the bulkhead threads, as well. You don’t really have to do this step, but I feel better about the whole deal when I do.

Put one gasket on each bulkhead. Stick the bulkhead through the holes you just drilled from the outside of the tank. Scratch your head a little and say, “this seems backwards to me”. It’s not. Get another gasket and put it over the bulkhead from inside the tank. This gasket will be between the tank and your shiny new overflow box. If you ordered the tall bulkheads, you may need to trim them to fit. The bulkhead should be cut down so that they protrude no more than 1/8” past the nut when installed.
13. Remove the top of the baffle from the overflow box. It might be in there pretty tight.
14. Put the box over the holes, snugly screw the nuts onto the bulkheads inside of the box, eyeball it to make sure it looks level.
15. If you haven’t already done so, put the F.L.U.S.H. tubes into the holes in the elbows. Put some teflon tape on the street elbow threads, then screw them into the bulkheads. This helps snug up the bulkheads as well. Be sure these bulkheads end up facing within 45 degrees or so of straight down.
16. Put the baffle back in the box, pressing it down firmly onto the vertical members.
Using pvc primer and cement, or an all in one such as Red Hot Blue Glue, finish plumbing this to your sump. You can use pvc pipe, spa flex, a barb and flexible tubing, it’s all up to you. Just don’t use a smaller size than the elbow on your box!
Check for leaks, and fix them if you have any.
Adjust the vent tubes if you have noises.
Fill it up with water, commit to waiting 6 weeks to stock it, get anxious and stock it in 2 days, then overstock the next week and wonder why you have so much algae and everybody dies all the time.
Repeat step 20 about 15 times until you run out of money.
 
Copyright © 2010 Glass-Holes.com. All rights reserved.
 

Copyright © 2008 Glass-Holes.com. All rights reserved.